Area: Langtang National Park north of Kathmandu.
Langtang region is a popular destination for climbing snow peaks and spectacular panoramic views of mountains in Nepal and Tibet. Easy access to the region and availability of several snow peaks scattered around for acclimatization make this region an ideal destination for novice as well as experienced climbers. Naya Kanga is an attractive peak rising to the west of the Ganja La pass (5,122m/16,800ft) . Ascending to Ganja La and the summit of Naya Kanga offer the spectacular panoramic views of mountains in Nepal and Tibet including Langshisa Ri (6,370m/20,894ft), Pemthang Ri (6,836m/22,422ft), Shisapangma (8,046m/27,749ft), Langtang Lirung (7,425m/24,354ft), Pemthang Kapro Ri (6,830m/22,402ft) and Langtang II (6,571m/21,553ft). The normal route of ascent to Naya Kanga is via the north - east ridge over a line on ice and snow. We follow the route of Langtang trek to Kyangjin (3,749m/12,297ft) for the ascent of Naya Kanga. To the north above Kangjin, there are several hills that provide both the magnificent views and acclimatization. Northeast of Kyangjin Ri (4,700m/15,416ft), there are two peaks; Yala Peak (5,500m/18,040ft) and Tsergo Peak (5,749m/18,857ft) that provide good climbing for acclimatization.
North-East Face & North Ridge :
Crossing the Langtang Khola below Kyangjin, we climb steeply along the ridge through a forest of rhododendron and juniper. Finally climbing more gently, we arrive at yak pastures of Ngegang at about 4000m. We continue following the trail to Ganja La climbing steeply through moraine . We leave Ganja La trail to climb steeply up yet more moraine to reach the eastern end of the glacier shelf beneath the north-east face of Naya Kanga. We set up the high camp here for the ascent. We cross the glacier shelf to the foot of a shallow couloir heading to the north ridge. We climb the couloir to the notch and the base of the ridge . Then we turn to the ice nose on the left which is only the technical section on the climb. Now the ridge widens and leads to a small col. on the east-west summit ridge and the summit is only 30m higher to the right. The climb near the summit should be done carefully. Normally, the ascent takes 5-7 hours from the high camp. For the return trek, we may follow Ganja La-Helambu route or back the way we came in to Dhunche.
Itinerary of Naya Kanga In Detail.
Days 01 : Kathmandu - Syabru by bus.
Days 02 - 04 : Through the Langtang valley to Kyanjin.
Days 05 : Rest day.
Days 06 - 07 : Acclimatization climb of Yala Peak.
Days 08 - 09 : Trek towards Ganjala pass.
Days 10 : Trek to Naya Kanga Base Camp.
Days 11 : Climb to High Camp.
Days 12 : Ascend to Summit. Trek to Base Camp.
Days 13 - 16 : Trek back to Dunche and drive to Kathamndu.
Days 13- 20 : Trek via Helambu to Kathmandu