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has remained largely untracked and unexplored. Our trek begins with a flight to jumla via Nepalgunj. The first part of trek is not difficult and provides delightful walking before joining ancient trade routes and the steep ascent to cross the Kagmara La (5225m0, our entrance to upper Dolpo. The scenery begins to change with the hills becoming shades of red, brown and gray. Eventually you can hear prayer flag fluttering at the top of the pass, and the view opens up dramatically looking east towards the snow peaks of the kanjiroba Himal and the five peaks of Dhaulagiri. We soon walk through the pleasant green pastures to the beautiful Phoksundo (Rigmo) lake. The scenery is outstanding with the deep blue waters of the lake contrasting with the weathered red and brown hills.